:
Good morning, and thank you for having us here. I am Lina Aristeo. I am the director of UNITE HERE in Quebec. UNITE HERE is a union that represents traditionally apparel and textile workers not only across Canada but across North America. Since our merger with the Hotel Employees and Restaurant Employees union, we also represent employees in the service sector, but I am really here to talk to you about the concerns that we have regarding the apparel industry and the loss of jobs in the apparel industry.
I believe Wynne Hartviksen came to see you last week, so I will try not to say the same things as she did. However, I did have just a brief period of time to read her notes.
I am also international vice-president of UNITE HERE and the vice-president of the Quebec Federation of Labour. I have brought with me here today--and I think it is worth noting, although they are only observers and I will dedicate part of my time to their presentation--some important people: Claudio Corsetti has worked for Peter Stone Fashion and has worked in the apparel industry for 28 years. He came from Italy, and this is the only job he's ever known. Marie-Sylvina Jean has worked in the apparel industry for 21 years, and this is the only job she has ever known since she came from Haiti. Francesca Uccello has worked in the apparel industry for 11 years. After taking care of her children, this is the only job she's ever known. Solange Jean-Pierre has worked in the apparel industry for 27 years since coming from Haiti in 1978. Chantal Corriveau has worked in the apparel industry for 28 years. And Eric Lavoie has worked in the apparel industry for 23 years.
I am taking some of my eight minutes to present these people to you because Wynne has made the case for having safeguards, and it's clear that I would also like to see that happen.
The motion brought by Mr. Julian passed with regard to limiting the increase of Chinese imports. But sometimes, and far too often, we forget to think about what these black words on white paper mean. What they mean is that these people here, all the people I've presented to you, were advised about two or three weeks ago that their shop is going to close in March.
Since we began this campaign in April 2005, nothing has happened except that people like these have lost their jobs. I would like the Canadian government to do something, and what they can do is to put safeguards in place.
I'm also accompanied by Amarkai Laryea and Luis Millard, who work for UNITE HERE and who have been supporting this campaign throughout its length.
So what have we done since 2005? Since 2005 this problem has gotten bigger. More jobs have been lost. There hasn't been an end to the loss of jobs. The job losses have been increasing dramatically since 2002. In fact, since 2002, in the apparel industry there have been 50,000 jobs lost in Canada, about 25,000 of which have been in Quebec.
Why do I specify Quebec? Because this is really a Quebec issue. Although it is a federal issue and we are presenting this to the federal government, the majority of the jobs in the apparel industry are located in one province, essentially in one city, Montreal. Montreal is the second most important manufacturing centre for apparel in North America. It's a place of distinction, and I think we should save what we can of the apparel industry.
I think when we talk about T-shirts being made in other countries, or socks, or underwear, all these things can be done to a great extent in Canada, but I think we've reached a certain point where we need to figure out what our apparel industry is going to be. What are our niche markets going to be? Montreal still makes some of the best suits in the world. I think that's one of the industries that we should put as much effort into protecting and safeguarding as we can. Limiting the growth of Chinese imports is one step in the right direction.
Last week's announcement by the government of $4.5 million to cut tariffs on imported textiles is a step in the right direction, but in my opinion, it's a drop in the bucket. The first question I asked our researcher was whether this is per company or for the entire industry, because $4.5 million will not save these jobs, even the eight jobs in this room, let alone the over 30,000 in the country.
We've met with several different ministers, especially those from Quebec, in particular Minister Bernier. We have members in Beauce who make jeans--there are very few places that still make jeans in Canada--have met and talked with Minister Bernier, who has been receptive, but who hasn't taken any action to date.
We have begun to educate our members as to what's been going on. On October 20, we had a rally where 2,500 members walked off their jobs, and when you make $8 an hour, losing four hours of pay is a big deal.
Mr. Julian was there. Mr. Cardin's party had sent representatives. As well, the Bloc and the NDP were there to support us in this. What's important is that there weren't just 2,500 workers saying, “Someone has to stand up for us, because we're doing what we can, but someone has to bring it back. We can throw the ball. The ball has to be thrown back as well.” What's important is that we had employers marching there with the union.
These aren't times anymore where we get to sit at a negotiation table and claim for these huge raises or fight against the boss. Now more than ever, unions and companies need to work together so this industry can survive. So that's just one example of how the employers of the places where we represent members are in support of this campaign. Although many large companies will have the funds and the budget to do this—can come and lobby, can come and talk—most of the people are taking all their time to just figure out how they can get their company to survive, to find a new product, to find new markets.
When, for instance, we ask Samuelsohn to come and speak here today, and I would have very much liked them to come, and we were trying.... They don't have time to come to Ottawa; they really don't, because for them it's a daily struggle. It is a daily struggle. They support this campaign nonetheless, and they wish to see safeguards implemented as much as I do, but for them, between getting their order out today and coming to see you, unfortunately, you come second. That's just the state of the industry.
When I sometimes speak as if I'm exasperated, it's because the industry is exasperated. When I say “the industry”, aside from just the employers I speak with, I mean it's the workers. They don't know what to do anymore. Again, they're losing another full day of pay so they can come here, just so that at least someone can see their faces. In March they're all going to lose their jobs, and what are they going to do? Don't tell them you want to recycle them. I've done the survey: with one exception, these people are all over 50 years old. Although they have great talents and great skills, I just don't see them working at a call centre for Sears, if that call centre still is in Canada.
This is important to us, and the safeguards are a measure that is at our disposal. According to the agreements in the World Trade Organization, a country that feels its economy has been perturbed—and I'm not taking the exact words—can put in place safeguard measures, can limit the increase of apparel imports into our market.
The United States has done this; the European Union has done this. They have negotiated with China. South American countries have; South Africa has done it. The question we ask you is this. Why is Canada not doing anything? There is no justifiable reason not to put in place a measure, which all our competitors have put in place, that is at our disposal.
I'm not going to take any more time, but I will answer questions if you have any.
Thank you.
:
Thank you, Mr. Chairman, for the opportunity to appear. I am pleased to be able to provide our comments concerning the issues and the motion under consideration by your committee.
My name is Elliot Lifson, and I am president of the Canadian Apparel Federation. I am also vice-chairman of Peerless Clothing, the largest Canadian apparel manufacturer and the largest single facility in North America manufacturing men's suits. We employ over 2,500 people in our Montreal facility. Sixty cultural communities are represented. I am also chairman of the Chambre de commerce, or Montreal Board of Trade, so I have a great interest in our industry because it's concentrated in Montreal. I also co-chair PROMIS, which promotes the integration of new arrivals in our community, and I do that under the chairmanship of Henri Massé, who is president of the Quebec Federation of Labour.
I am joined by Bob Kirke, executive director of the Canadian Apparel Federation.
In my opening remarks, I would like to speak briefly about our industry, then explain why we do not think imposing safeguards will provide much help to our industry, and then talk about policies that would be of help to our industry. How can we help that industry?
The Canadian Apparel Federation represents over 600 Canadian companies involved in the apparel industry in Canada. The Canadian apparel industry produces a broad range of women's, men's, and children's apparel. At the beginning of 2006, the Canadian apparel industry directly employed approximately 60,000 people, produced over $5 billion of clothing, of which close to $2 billion was exported, 90% of it to the United States.
The apparel industry draws on a range of skills, from relatively low skill and low technology employment to very creative fashion designers, to highly advanced engineering and software development.
As you are all aware, the apparel industry is facing a unique set of challenges, including the effects of trade liberalization, the appreciation of the Canadian dollar, and other trade issues. For these reasons, you are considering the motion at hand. We welcome your interest in our industry.
Last week, Statistics Canada released a study entitled Trade Liberalization and the Canadian Clothing Market. I recommend highly that committee members review the report. In it, Statistics Canada does an excellent job explaining the changes that have taken place in the Canadian apparel trade over the past 15 years. It demonstrates how imports from the United States have declined and how various developing countries gradually took a greater share of our market.
Finally, it documents the market share now taken by China, and that a large portion of increased imports from China replaces imports from other countries, which have been drastically reduced. The report provides an excellent perspective to the discussion you were having concerning safeguards. To quote the report:
Much of the attention paid to trade in clothing focuses upon the recent growth of imports from China, but this mistakenly identifies the shifting composition of the Canadian clothing market as a recent phenomenon, according to a new study published today in the Canadian Economic Observer.
In reality, the turn to China that made it Canada's top source of clothing imports at $3.0 billion in 2005, was just the latest in a series of changes in Canada's trade in clothing over the last two decades.
Clothing imports for the January to September 2006 period were 15% higher than 2005. On a practical and business planning level, apparel manufacturers have known about the end of quotas since 1995. Companies need to adjust. Some have, some have not, so even though the motion says “time to adjust”, those that have adjusted and survived will survive and go forward--and that's related to management, unfortunately not to the workers, with all due respect to all who are present.
We are living in an era of globalization and freer trade. The world is flat, and we must all learn how to adjust and find our market niches. Many successful Canadian companies have adopted a strategy of producing higher-end or more complex apparel in Canada that requires proximity to market while supplementing the lower end of their apparel line with imports from China or elsewhere. Our big competitive advantage is proximity to the U.S. At 90%, that's our big customer. This business strategy allows Canadian apparel manufacturers to remain competitive and maintain Canadian production.
I will now address the issue of China safeguards. Some have suggested that safeguards against China are a potential remedy for the challenges facing our industry. Our view is that the scope for Canada to enact safeguards is limited, and safeguards are not likely to offer any tangible benefits to domestic producers.
I base this on the facts presented in the Statistics Canada report I mentioned and on the practical considerations involved in establishing China safeguards. Those considerations include six matters.
First, as witnesses told you last week, safeguards cannot reverse the damage that has already been done.
Second, they will allow a 7.5% increase in the current Chinese import volume per year.
Third, at best, they will only be in effect until the end of 2008.
Fourth, the imposition of safeguards on China will only lead to increased imports from other developing countries that are more than able and willing to replace China. It must be remembered that worldwide apparel production capacity is twice worldwide apparel demand. Manufacturers of low-cost apparel in countries such as Bangladesh--and by the way, I was surprised when the LDC initiatives were put in and Bangladesh goods could come in from Bangladesh, never mind quota free, but tariff free. I can tell you that on that one, both the union and I appeared at the table--don't include Bangladesh, include African countries only. The big increase was Bangladesh, 300%, and nobody yelled. India and Indonesia are more than willing to take China's place. Therefore, any safeguards placed on China would likely cause trade diversion to other countries, with little or no benefit to Canadian apparel producers.
Fifth, safeguards will hinder apparel companies that are blending domestic production with imports from China and cause unpredictable bottlenecks in the supply chain that would likely harm a wide range of firms.
Sixth, the motion again stated “time to adapt”. We've known about this for 10 years. In our view, we need to continue to focus not on safeguards, but on the future and on market realities. We need to understand where we can fit in in the highly competitive and highly global apparel market. Leading Canadian apparel companies are increasingly focused on fashion and product development, marketing and supply chain management to differentiate themselves and maintain their position in a very price-competitive marketplace in Canada and the U.S.
Canadians can compete based on superior design and customer service and by meeting the needs of their retail customers throughout North America. We cannot be the low-cost producer, but we can be successful if we offer superior value to our customers.
I must put in an aside. I have a little hobby. I am a professor at McGill in the School of Management in the MBA program and a visiting professor at HEC in the same program.
Let me now turn to the issue of policies for the Canadian apparel industry. If we are to ensure the Canadian apparel industry remains a viable and competitive industry, our industrial strategy must be cohesive and coordinated. Our association appeared before this committee on November 30, 2004, on the eve of WTO quota elimination, which came into effect on January 1, 2005. We identified the conditions we faced then, which we still face today.
They include increased import pressures and reduced competitiveness in export markets, owing to the rise of the Canadian dollar. At that time, we advocated policies that would assist our competitiveness: safeguards were not one of them; tariff reductions on imports and other industrial policies are. Policy recommendations, the textile tariffs, no questions about it.
As we have mentioned in our previous appearances before this and other parliamentary committees, our most important issue remains the elimination of duties paid on imported raw materials. It is our position that duties should be removed on all imported textiles used to manufacture apparel in Canada and that are not made by the Canadian textile industry.
Two years ago this week, December 14, 2004, the previous government announced its intention to eliminate duties on all textiles not made in Canada. The second round of tariff cuts following from that announcement was made last Friday, totalling $4.5 million per year in duty savings, and this one, I agree with Lina, is a drop in the bucket. We're looking forward to more. But this will allow us to keep our jobs here by providing the value-added activity here.
Combined with previous announcements made a year ago, this brings us approximately halfway toward the goal of $70 million. And we were able to make this announcement, as the Honourable Michael Fortier made the same announcement in our facility last Friday.
The Canadian government has made substantial progress in meeting this commitment, but more needs to be done. There are another $35 million in duties being paid on imported textiles that are not made in Canada and for which the Canadian apparel industry should not be paying duties. That's our biggest cost. Certainly in the men's suiting business, fabrics are our biggest cost. So it would be a great help.
Other programs and initiatives. Until 2004, individual firms could access resources that supported adjustment measures through the Canadian apparel and textile industries program, the CATIP program. Currently apparel firms generally cannot access funding under CANtex. We would support changes in line with the amendments to the motion being considered by the committee.
The Canadian Apparel Federation work closely with Industry Canada, through the Canadian apparel and textile industries program, to deliver a range of services to apparel manufacturers. Most of the funding under CATIP is set to end in March 2007. Any extension of this support would be welcome.
Finally, we work closely with the Apparel Human Resource Council, and never mind the need for a well-trained workforce who are working very hard; we have to change the thinking of the management level who direct this workforce. That's where HRDC helped out a great deal in strategic reports, especially for small companies.
I thank you. Remember, you can compete three ways. We're not the lowest-cost producer; we will never be in this country. First is price/value; number two, innovation and creativity; and number three, service, service, service. And it's our proximity to the U.S. market. That's our big market
Thank you very much.
:
Thank you, Mr. LeBlanc.
[English]
To answer your first question, I will quote the same feature article as Mr. Lifson has on trade liberalization and the Canadian clothing market. So I quote, as well:
Since joining the WTO in 2002, our clothing imports from China increased by nearly $1.8 billion, an 86% increase. This contrasts with a $0.8 billion drop for clothing imports from all other countries.
China's share of Canada's total clothing supply, which is comprised of imports as well as Canadian clothing manufacturing for the domestic market, has increased fivefold from 6% in 1995 to 31% in 2005. It is second only to Canadian clothing manufacturers who continue to supply 32% of the domestic market.
And then I continue:
[Translation]
Subsequently, in December 2001, China joined the WTO, which meant that in 2002, China's quotas increased for the first time, in accordance with the WTO's Agreement on Textiles and Clothing. As of December 31, 2004, all quotas on apparel imports from China to Canada were lifted. Consequently, in 2005, Chinese imports totalled $3 billion, nearly $2.5 billion more than imports from the US or Bangladesh and twice the value of Chinese imports in 2002. This amount represented an increase of 47% in nominal value over 2004, or an increase of approximately $1 billion.
[English]
So I think these figures you all have access to--and I can leave a copy with the clerk if you wish--state the situation.
Although imports in general are a problem, China is a specific, more extraordinary problem. I may be the first union person to come here and tell you that, yes, we should negotiate with China. This comes to your second question, because you know what? China is not going to go away. And they think Canada will have to continue to import.
We have no choice but to continue to import. We have no choice, as much as I wish we could buy only Canadian-made products in Canada and close all trade barriers. Right? That would a utopia for unions. We just can't live that way. Some people may roll their eyes. I'm saying it a bit to contrast from saying we should put the safeguards in place, send whatever notices we need to send to China to put a band-aid on this bigger problem. Because, that's right, what we are asking for is a band-aid measure. But let's start negotiations, and let's talk to China in the same way the European Union and the United States have.
We can compare to South Africa and Peru and these other countries, but let's look at who the players are who are on the same level as we are: the States and the European Union. And so they've done it, and I think we should do it as well.
Thank you.
As for what happened in the United States, I'll use as the first example. A number of industries tabled requests for safeguards according to processes that were laid out. Although it's not quite the same, we have the Canadian International Trade Tribunal here that could hear those kinds of safeguard cases.
Essentially what happened was chaos in the marketplace, because once you trigger a safeguard, it's: get in, move it faster. So everything gets moved up faster and creates an amazing disruption in the marketplace, because that's just good sense. If there's going to be a safeguard in place with a certain cap, you move like heck to get in there before the cap takes hold.
Faced with that level of confusion in the marketplace, China agreed--although it did not have to--to negotiate a broader quota arrangement with the United States. And again, the same sort of thing happened in Europe. But if we were to look back about a year and a half, on the cover of BusinessWeek, I think, were the bra wars in Europe. All the retailers were bringing in bras from China and they hit the cap.
There are many opinions about what should be done. But I would not want this committee to think it's just one-two, we'll notify them on the safeguard, they'll say okay, and we'll negotiate a bilateral.
If you were looking at some of the growth rates in 2005 into the States, they were up 700% in some categories, they were up 20%, 10% in some, and the cap was at 7.5%.
So again, I would encourage you to speak to the people at International Trade to have them clearly lay out what the scenarios would be, because it is not a simple process, by any means. Setting aside that our position is in general that they're not appropriate, even if you chose to move forward on them, it's a rough road.
:
Mr. Lifson has provided a partial response to your question.
I found the first part of your question rather interesting. When Mr. Lifson indicated to you that the federation had 700 members, you asked if this number had declined. You then went on to talk about a company in the Beauce region.
I can name several companies in the Beauce that have ceased operations: Cardinal Clothes inc; Corporation de vêtements S.F.I.; Jeno Neuman et Fils Inc,; J.A. Besner et Fils (Canada) ltée; and Les Vêtements Chambly 1982 Inc. These are a few of the names that come to mind. I've been the union director for two years and I have a long list -- two full pages -- of names of businesses that have closed their doors, not counting those that have had to cutback their workforce. Many companies like Algo remain in business with perhaps one worker on the payroll, when in the past they had a workforce of over 100 employees.
We need to remember that the apparel industry in Canada is completely different. On the one hand, we have clothing manufacturers and on the other, we have the importers. Some companies, of course, are both manufacturers and importers. However, companies that import clothing are not a true reflection of the reality that Canadian manufacturers face. Many such Canadian manufacturers are at their wit's end. They don't know whether to shut down, to stay in business or to operate at a deficit.
One Beauce company is still in operation solely because of a union-supplied contract. Without the union, the company would not have a contract. The owner claims that this contract is beneficial. This is another example of a band-aid measure, such as safeguards. Such measures won't save this company. At the time the union helped the company secure this contract, the company broke into US markets and it is now trying to expand its client base. The owner is buying time, much like safeguards would help companies on the brink of closing to buy more time.
Although they may not pose a threat to Vêtements Peerless Inc., imports from China do pose a major threat to many other local manufacturers.
I should mention that Teamsters Canada represents Peerless employees, and not Vêtements Peerless Inc. workers.
:
As Mr. Lifson says, before the WTO, when we were talking about other countries, such as Bangladesh and the LDCs, and they became a threat to our market for the first time, our market share of Canadian domestic production was still larger than it is today with China. Although we all fought against this, it was not as big a threat as China has become today.
I'm not saying that China is the only problem, but today it is the biggest problem. Therefore, I believe that if we have a measure at our disposal for China, we should use that measure.
As someone mentioned, we should begin a talk with China, because China will continue to produce. And yes, there is probably more supply than demand, or more ability to produce than we can consume. But let's not forget that there are other ways by which we can keep production local. How many people working in the buildings in Ottawa are wearing uniforms? These are things that should be made in Canadian places, as much as we can.
I know it's sometimes a stupid example—it's not scientific, rather—but look at American Apparel. Have you all seen those little American Apparel shops that sell a T-shirt for $40, while it probably costs less than 25 cents to make it in China? People are paying $40 for that T-shirt nonetheless, rather than going to Wal-Mart or someplace where they can buy it for five dollars, because they believe—and I'm saying “believe”, because we're not of that same opinion—that they're not made in sweatshops, that the people who made those T-shirts did so in good working conditions. So if American Apparel is growing like wild grass, then there are people in Canada who are ready to pay a bit more, knowing that the working conditions in which the products they're buying are made are good.
I know I kind of turned your question around a bit. I answered it briefly but brought in another issue. We are in the new global economy. We are in a new market, but we need to adapt and live with it.
So now we have a safeguard measure at our disposal. Let's use it and begin talks with China. Let's try to control this bleeding that we currently are living with.
:
With all due respect, I don't know whether you complimented me or not on theory, but I don't think it was a compliment. I'm a practical man, because I live it every day. You might be theoretical, but I'm practical. I'm in the trenches, so let's remember that, okay? And I'm not running for office.
Some hon. members: Oh, oh!
Mr. Elliot Lifson: Maybe I should, but anyway, in spite of that, what I want to say is that I'm going to go back to what you said. I could see where your thinking is, so if I sat across from you all day, I'd have a hard time changing your thinking. But if worldwide capacity is twice worldwide demand, and if it's easy to move from one country to another, then if you put a fence up, you're going to get it in the other door, especially if the other door allows you to bring it in tariff-free from Bangladesh.
That's a practical issue, because I'm living it every day. It could be done. The reason other countries had an industry, sir, was because the Chinese quota was utilized before. So all these other countries developed. It all went back to China because it's easier to deal there. It has a better infrastructure; I'll agree with that. But when it comes to cost and you're fighting on price only, then you have to go to the lowest-cost producer, so you're going to run to Bangladesh. China is not going to be an answer for this country. That's the reality.
The question of American Apparel is a great example. In other words, I agree, move up the value chain. These are the companies that are going to survive: the ones that have a price-value relationship. We will never be the lowest-cost producer. We just won't. It hasn't worked in the United States, so it's not going to work here.
That's the practical answer. Theory I'll discuss with you all day, and I have no animosity.
Mr. Julian talked about Mr. Menzies' quote. Nowhere in his quote did it say that he would support safeguards. I don't think he should be speaking for Mr. Menzies. He's not here. So don't be putting words in his mouth. It doesn't say safeguards in that quote in any way, Mr. Julian. There are lots of ways you can achieve that without safeguards.
I do want to point out here that in the past the Liberal Party, of course, didn't support this measure, and I suspect that if they were on the government side today, they wouldn't. We see a game of politics being played here, and in my opinion, it's a little bit of shameful behaviour.
Again, I also see from this committee--which is not shocking, because this is the way it's been all along--that we completely ignore the normal procedure here. This may be a new committee, but there is a procedure that all committees are to be following with respect to research papers. Our researchers here, who are extremely talented, have not been able to do any of the work that we have been here for. It's their job to take a look at what the witnesses have to say and put together a report that all of us around the table look at line by line, fine-tune, and tweak. And that's what you give to the government with your recommendations in it. This procedure of putting a motion together that's only one-sided and that doesn't take into account the differences in opinion that we hear at the table is just irresponsible. Somebody has to hold you guys accountable for that. That's irresponsible.
Why would we not continue with the researchers the way we're supposed to and let them put forward a proper report that we can put forward? It doesn't prevent you from having everything in it that you want. It just shows that we've had other witnesses—which we have—who have not agreed with your position on that side of the table.
I also thought that perhaps some of the good work we could do at this table would be to talk about how the industries can adapt to the new trade environment, taking into account some of the recommendations they had, and give those to the government, and not simply say that there's only one option here. Because there are a lot, and we've heard those kinds of recommendations at this table, as well. I think that would be helpful. I think we're doing the entire industry a great injustice by not even acknowledging those other options, the other recommendations, and the other good work that's been done. I think that's very disappointing.
We, of course, know that since 2002 it's been $120 million. I will give credit to the previous government for that, for supporting the industry. But right now, I think you guys are really making a huge mistake. Perhaps it's not sexy, and it's not going to make the media headlines to see that you're completely flip-flopping on your position and being irresponsible. But it will be held against you at some point, and I can probably guarantee you on that one.
We will be voting against the motion because we believe in the good work of the researchers. We believe there is a process that's been followed for years here in government, and we would like to see a proper report done, because that is the way it should be done, and we respect process.